Nathan Rabin takes the KFC Double Down "sandwich" (previously) for a taste drive.

Like grief, the Double Down is experienced in stages. First comes the deceptive sense of relief that the Double Down isn’t as terrible as it initially appears. As I devoured my first bite, I embarked on a Proustian reverie that ushered me back to all the happy moments I’ve shared at various KFCs. Have I mentioned that I fucking love KFC’s white-meat chicken?

It wasn’t long before reality sunk in.

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